A weekend in the "Golfo dei Poeti".
At the eastern end of the thin arch that is Liguria, on the border with Tuscany, we find magical places where sea and hills fall in love and create a landscape so elegant and harmonious that it was able to enchant, long before us - common mortals - two gentlemen who understood elegance and harmony: the great Byron and Shelley who elected it their gulf and called it "The Gulf of Poets".
And yet, from Florence downwards, few people know about this marvellous area, which is frequented mainly by Lombards and Emilians (who can easily reach it by motorway) and by a few adventurous tourists from Northern Europe.
The “Golfo dei Poeti” starts from Portovenere in the North and reaches the Promontory of Montemarcello in the South, which closes it facing the majestic Apuan Alps.
The village of Montemarcello, a typical Ligurian village, alternates between narrow alleys, small squares and breathtaking views of the Gulf and the Apuan Alps.
Don't miss the 10-minute walk to the Belvedere di Punta Corvo to appreciate its extraordinary location. Located within the Montemarcello Magra Regional Park, there are many marked excursions for trekking enthusiasts.
Along the road that runs along the coast we will arrive in Lerici, with its port, its beautiful Genovese castle and its houses clinging to its slopes from which you can enjoy unique views of the Gulf. And then, welcome to Tellaro, 10 minutes away by car, a charming fishing village built on the rocks.
Here we are in the Cinque Terre. Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza e Monterosso, together with Portovenere, the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto are part of the Unesco heritage. Reaching them by car is impossible. You have to go there by train from La Spezia (with one of the direct trains to the 5 terre) or by small boats that leave from the small port of Lerici.
A wonderful surprise is Sarzana, a town in the Lunigiana Valley, which with its precious medieval historical centre surprises with important churches and palaces as well as valuable craftsmen and antique dealers. We recommend ice cream at Biagi's and Pasticceria Gemmi for a good coffee and to taste the Spungata, a delicious local dessert.
Also, take an excursion to the Apuan Alps to visit the famous Carrara marble quarries which are a unique experience.
The most beautiful beaches. The beach of Punta Corvo is a unique experience (also for the fatigue....): after leaving the car in Montemarcello (two parking areas) you walk to the beach, made of sand and grey pebbles, about 700 steps away (then you have to climb again...). Recommended for sportsmen with closed sports shoes, water, hat and sun cream. During the summer period, this beach can also be reached by a boat shuttle service from Bocca di Magra.
The Marossa beach is also very wild and accessible only by a very steep and not particularly well maintained path starting from one of the hairpin bends near Zanego. Hiking shoes are recommended!
The Marinella beach, on the other hand, is the classic comfortable and easy beach: it is near the mouth of the Magra river and is equipped with umbrellas, deckchairs and sunbeds. The most pleasant beach is the Tamerici beach with its convenient parking and pleasant restaurant on the beach.
The beach of Fiascherino, in the coves between Lerici and Tellaro. They can be reached by car (parking is not easy) or on foot (from Zanego). The most famous is L'eco del Mare: chic and elegant it also has high prices.
Recommended restaurants.
Montemarcello:
Trattoria dei Pironcelli (0187 601252): a very special atmosphere (when the season permits you can also eat outside in the village alleyways) and excellent home-made food.
Near La Serra: Osteria di Redarca (0187 966140).
An excellent restaurant, without a sea view but with a very pleasant atmosphere; L'Orto di Ameste (0187 964628) Via Casamento 18. A beautiful view and good food.
Lerici:
Ciccillo a Mare (0187 968191) behind the castle of Lerici, on the rocks overlooking the islands. Try the spaghetti alla bomba and the fried squid and cuttlefish! every day
Ristorante dei Pescatori (0187 965534) in Via Doria 3. During the summer they have tables in the main square. During the summer they have tables also in the central square.
Bocca di Magra:
Capannina di Ciccio (0187 65568): try the 'Branzino in crosta di sale', 'muscoli fritti', 'fritture di paranza', etc. with a view of the mouth of the river Magra.
Fiumaretta:
Antica Locanda Il Pilota (0187 64446) at Via del Pilota 15. You can eat under the pergola, a pleasant address.
Sarzana:
Osteria dei Sani (0187 620829) at Via Torrione Testaforte 11.
La Spezia:
Osteria all'Inferno (0187 29758) in Via L. Costa 3. Excellent strictly Ligurian menu with a good quality/price ratio. La Pia Centenaria (0187 739999) in Via Magenta 12. Historical pizzeria: delicious farinata and delicious Pizzette.
Palmaria Island:
Locanda Lorena (0187 792370) in front of Porto Venere, Reachable only by boat with the shuttle service from Porto Venere.
For a stay:
Azienda Agricola Pian della Chiesa locality Zanego located on the road between Lerici and Montemarcello. You can visit, taste the wine in the cellar (and buy it directly or go to the website Mycupofteadigital.it ) or even book a stay in one of the houses scattered in the woods of the property.